Fave Eats

Responding to a meme for my 5 favorite places to eat. It's dang hard to come up with just five, but let's see what happens...

Sammy's Romanian Steakhouse - New York
Much more than its name implies, this is a Jewish Experience. It's like going to a Bar Mitzvah in the Catskills. The menu includes most of the "K" foods -- kishke, kreplach, kasha varnishkes. But the steaks are amazing. Giant strip steaks with an indescribably delicious Romanian marinade. And to dip your bread? Not butter. Not olive oil. But schmaltz. Yes, liquefied chicken fat. Yum! Order Vodka and you'll be served a bottle of Absolut frozen in a block of ice, left at your table in a tub, just like champagne. Remember those old-fashioned seltzer bottles? There's one on your table. When you're done with the main course, your waitress will bring milk and Fox's U-Bet Chocolate Syrup. Those in the know will then mix their own egg creams (no egg, no cream, but it's nectar from heaven) to enjoy with a plate of rugulach. I forgot to mention the entertainment. Depending on the night, you might find a fellow who looks like Bobby Vinton singing and playing Jewish favorites and standards on a keyboard. The owner is the guy with the gold chains, a glass of wine in his hand and bawdy comments at the ready. Not to be missed! Leave your business card on the wall and buy a souvenir T-shirt.

Katz's Delicatessen - New York
One of the few authentic Jewish deli's left, this one is atypical. It is set up cafeteria style. You go to the counter, and a counterman makes your sandwich. Order your corned beef or pastrami on club bread for a great alternative to the ubiquitous rye. Enjoy the decor, which includes hanging salamis and a sign dating to W.W.II that urges you to "send a salami to your boy in the Army" (in New York, that rhymes). See my post from a 2005 visit.

Roscoe's House of Chicken and Waffles - Hollywood and other L.A. area locations
The name just about says it all. This combination works. Roscoe's is a specialized kind of soul food joint. You'll be greeted by a friendly security guard/mâitre d'. The menu is mostly various combinations of fried chicken and waffles. The chicken is wonderfully breaded and fried, available with or without gravy. The waffles are tender and fluffy. A side order of collard greens cuts through the heaviness of the gravy and syrup.

Billy Goat Tavern - Chicago
Many times, I've walked up Michigan Avenue just north of the Chicago River (one of my favorite spots in any city) and not noticed the sign for the Billy Goat. This time, my friend spotted it and we went down the stairs to a lower level on which cross streets run, to see what it was. Immediately on entering, I realized the import of our discovery. The Saturday Night sketch about a Greek burger joint - "Cheeborger, cheeborger . . . no fries, cheeps . . . no Pepsi, Coke." - was a take-off on the Billy Goat! It was a great cheeborger! I got a double, because the counterman refused to sell me a single. It is served on a piece of wax paper which you take to a fixin' station with onions, pickles, relish and condiments, and then carry to your table. Alert the historic preservation society; the Billy Goat must always stand!

Café du Monde - New Orleans
Enjoy fresh squeezed orange juice, that wonderful New Orleans chicory coffee, and beignets at this open air cafe near the waterfront. Beignets are incredibly wonderful, square, donut-like delicacies that are pummeled with powdered sugar. Most mornings, local street musicians will provide a jazz serenade.

OK, I can't stop at five...

Two Lights Lobster Shack - Cape Elizabeth, Maine
When visiting Maine between late April and early October, enjoy this classic seaside seafood experience. A beautiful, rocky setting just south of Portland. Lobsters, lobster rolls, great lobster stew, fried clams, shrimp or fish. Get a basket with fries, and cole slaw that has a hint of pineapple juice. Dine inside or out.

Arthur Bryant's - Kansas City
In a city known for its barbecue, this place ranks at the top. First finding national fame in Calvin Trillin's writings in the New Yorker, Bryant's has not been ruined by its celebrity. The key to its success is a uniquely flavored, grainy sauce. Get on line and be served whopping portions of ribs and fixin's on a metal tray. Enjoy your meal in decor that looks like a men's room, but is otherwise pleasant.

Yocco's - Allentown, PA.
There are few local/regional fast food joints of distinction left in America, and Yocco's is one. Their specialty is chili dogs. A standard "Yocco's" is a well-done dog in a steamed bun with mustard, chopped onions and homemade chili sauce. I recommend asking for pickles and (banana) peppers. Instead of fries, order fried potato pierogies -- sort of an Eastern European ravioli. Dig their logo which shows an angry hot dog wearing a crown eating...a hot dog.

Brennan's - New Orleans
In the best dining-out city in America, Brennan's has a special place in my heart. This is where I had the most amazing breakfast in my life, and I love breakfast! The specialty is poached eggs and omelets in many varieties, done to perfection. Have turtle soup as an opener and finish with Bananas Foster (this is where it was invented) made tableside. Make reservations, dress well, and plan to spend more than you ever thought breakfast could cost. Just do it.

Lawry's Prime Rib - Chicago, Las Vegas, L.A.
A relic of a bygone age (like the 40's!), with waitresses identified as "Miss Soandso," none of the first-name-phony-familiarity that's run rampant. With the exception of one fish dish, they serve prime rib and prime rib only. Choose from a selection of cuts, carved tableside from a Buck Rogers-ish chrome cart. Salads are served from a bowl that your waitress spins by hand as she drizzles Lawry's salad dressing (a spicy French type) into it. Sadly, they no longer bottle the dressing; you used to be able to take some home. Yes, this is the restaurant that invented Lawry's seasoned salt.

Buckhorn Exchange - Denver
A real man's eating establishment, but women are invited, too. The oldest restaurant in Denver at 100+. A kind view of the decor, for non-hunters, is that it's like a visit to the Museum of Natural History. In other words, taxidermy abounds in a setting of rich hardwood. The menu features elk, buffalo, rocky mountain oysters and other game. Preparation and presentation are superb, and the food tastes wonderful, not gamy at all. This is the kind of place to which a gentleman will want to wear a tweed jacket with suede elbow patches, though I don't think there's an official dress code.

Phillippe's the Original - Los Angeles
Phillipe's feels like a trip back to the 1940's, but the place is actually older. Founded in 1908, they claim to have created the French Dip sandwich in 1918 by inadvertantly dropping a roast beef sandwich in the gravy. The customer who accepted the soggy meal came back with friends for more, and a menu item was born. Also born was a verbal travesty as other places serve the gravy on the side and refer to their sandwiches as being served "with au jus." You want to upset the French, that's all you need. Me, I'll take the tasty soggy sandwich along with great sides -- cole slaw, served dry, medium or wet, macaroni salad with lots of pickle relish, an outstanding kosher dill pickle, beet-pickled eggs and pickled pig's feet. My friends also tried and liked the beef stew. And you can get dipped sandwiches with lamb or other meats instead of beef. Beer, wine and rich desserts also available. The 1940's feel probably comes from the uniforms of the (counter) servers and the signage.

AQ Chicken House - Springdale, AR.
Just a town away from Wal-Mart HQ is another stuck-in-time eatery. They make pan-fried chicken and I've never had any nearly as good. A chicken dinner with sides and ice tea ran about $14 including tip just a few years ago.

I knew I couldn't do just five!

Meatballs

I've been making meatballs for more than 20 years now. I learned from my first wife who learned from her mother. I've made a few adjustments over the years and for the first time have written down a recipe so I can produce the same result consistently.

I often had a problem with the meatballs falling apart. The secret is the right amount of binder (eggs and bread crumbs), but I also found it helped to omit chopped onions and use onion powder or granules instead.

There are 66 cute little meatballs cooking as I write.

Italian Meatballs recipe

4 pounds chopped beef, 85% lean
2 tablespoons onion granules or powder
2 tablespoons garlic granules or powder
2 tablespoons dried parsley
3 tablespoons dried oregano
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons black pepper
4 large eggs
1 cup fine bread crumbs

Combine all ingredients well in a large bowl. Use your hands!

This recipe assumes you have lots of tomato sauce going -- I would make a smooth sauce using two 28-ounce cans of crushed tomatoes or puree. You just need to get it started simmering.

Roll into balls. I like them about 1-1/2" diameter.

Heat some olive oil in a large frying pan and brown the balls on all sides. Do not overcrowd the pan. Do them in shifts. For this size ball, about a dozen in a large pan at a time is good. Turn them gently with a tablespoon.

Gently lower the balls into the sauce and cook for at least an hour, preferably up to two hours so that meatballs are infused with the tomato flavor. I've had meatballs at too many Italian joints that were not cooked in the sauce, but only covered with it.

Too many leftovers? Freeze them!

Books About Food & Life

My favorite food books are the ones that demonstrate the soul deep role of food in life -- beyond physical nourishment or even creating cooking. Here are three that come to mind:

Julie and Julia: My Year of Cooking Dangerously by Julie Powell
Powell was a secretary in New York who decided to make every recipe in Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking in 365 days. Powell's writing is honest, earthy and very funny. I just saw her discuss and read from her book at the Tattered Cover, and she was as engaging in person as in her writing.




The Food of Love by Anthony Capella
A novel about food, love and life in Italy, completely sensuous and very sweet.







Stolen Figs: And Other Adventures in Calabria by Mark Rotella
Rotella searches for his roots and finds them in a piece of the world lost in time.

Peaches en Regalia

Having recently moved west from the southeast, not so far from great peach producing states, the last thing I expected was to learn I had moved to a state with a renowned peach crop.

Indeed, western Colorado produces the best peaches I've ever enjoyed. The harvest runs from mid-August through September.

The peaches are not inexpensive, but in general I've found groceries in Denver to be more expensive than either of the last two places I've lived -- Virginia and Maine. The lowest price I've seen is $1.79 per pound, but I was able to buy some "defects" that were hardly bruised for less at the farmer's market last week.

This weekend I made peach pancakes. Just use your regular batter recipe and add diced peaches. Remember to cook them longer, and check your first batch to see they are cooked through. Works for waffles too.

2nd Ave Deli R. I. P.

The Second Avenue Deli was the last of the old neighborhood Jewish delicatessens. Growing up, there was one just like it in every Jewish neighborhood in the Bronx, Brooklyn and Manhattan. I never went to Queens, so I don't know about that.

When I lived in the East Village, in the early 70s, it was still a small neighborhood place with white tile floors and countermen with concentration camp tattoos on their arms.

Sometime in the 70s, the Deli expanded and the decor was made fancier, but the menu did not change. Eventually the countermen were Hispanic and Asian, but the servers were the same crotchety old Jewish men and women. I once saw a waitress spill soup on a customer and then yell at the customer.

A few years ago, the founder and owner was murdered while making a night deposit. His children carried it on for a while, but I've read that they didn't own the building and the rents in this now gentrified neighborhood (the half-railroad I rented for $75 in 1971 would probably fetch $1,500+ now) were too high, so they closed it earlier this year.

Yes, there are other Jewish delis in New York, not the last of them Katz's, but the 2nd Ave.'s demise truly marks the end of an era.

Photo from Eater

Poor Man's Veal Piccata

Still being creative with chopped meat, I bought a pound of chopped veal last week. I've typically avoided veal due to concerns about treatment of the animals, but I trust Whole Foods' policy (they won't sell lobsters any more, which I don't agree with, but it is indicative they are concerned about the creatures).

As chopped meat goes, it ain't cheap -- I think it was $8.99/pound, but still cheaper than any other cut of veal. Now, what to do? I looked up recipes for Veal Piccata and found one on the Food Network site by Emeril Lagasse. It worked beautifully with just a few adjustments. The sauce is lemony and intense. I served with pasta tossed in butter and olive oil flavored with a little garlic powder, which cut through the pungency of the veal sauce.

Do not be tempted to substitute chopped beef. This requires a delicately flavored meat. I could see chopped chicken as a possibility.


Poor Man's Veal Piccata recipe

1/2 cup flour
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dried parsley flakes
1 pound chopped veal
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
5 tablespoons butter
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup chicken stock
1 garlic clove, chopped
1 lemon, juiced

In a shallow bowl combine the flour, 1-1/2 teaspoons of the salt and pepper and stir to combine. Divide the veal into four sections and form into patties as thin as possible without them falling apart. Dredge the patties in the flour mix, being sure to coat thoroughly and then shaking gently to remove excess flour.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium high heat until very hot. Add 1-1/2 tablespoons of the butter. When it has melted, gently add the patties to the frying pan and cook until golden brown on both sides and cooked through, without burning, 4-5 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

Deglaze the pan with wine and bring to a boil, scraping to remove any browned bits. When the wine has been reduced by half, add the chicken stock, chopped garlic and lemon juice and cook for 5 minutes. Whisk in the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt, remaining 3-1/2 tablespoons of butter and the parsley.

If by the time the butter has melted the sauce has not begun to thicken, whisk in some of the leftover flour mix, perhaps a teaspoon, and then maybe one more if needed. Be careful not to overdo this.

Return the patties to the pan and cook until heated through, turning of desired, about one minute. Serve immediately, spooning sauce over each patty.

Mmmm, Turkey Burgers!

My wife injured several of her teeth, and while recovering from root canals, her ability to chew is limited, so I've been expanding my range of things made with chopped meat. I've never been a fan of chopped turkey, but desperate times call for desperate measures.

So I bought some chopped turkey, started experimenting, and have come up with a recipe for burgers that we all really like! I first bought the meat from a typical supermarket, but found that they often add flavorings and water. It worked OK, but I prefer the meat I can buy at Whole Foods, and I mix equal portions of white and dark meat at a combined price of about $5/pound.

Curried Turkey Burgers recipe

1 pound chopped turkey meat
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon garlic granules (or powder)
1 teaspoon onion granules (or powder)
2 teaspoons curry powder
1/2 cup panko*
1 egg

Place all ingredients in a bowl and mix well (I use my hands, same as with meat loaf) and form into 4 patties. Grill or saute as you would hamburgers. I haven't measured the time it takes, but I think it takes longer than pure beefburgers. I suggest using an instant-read meat thermometer and after cooking 4-5 minutes per side, take the temperature. You're looking for 165 degrees.

*Panko is a Japanese form of bread crumbs, available at Asian groceries. You can substitute other bread crumbs, but make them as fine as possible.

Strange Fruit

Why is it that breakfast joints, even some otherwise good ones, insist on serving "Mixed Fruit" jelly? Guess it's cheaper, especially the no-name foodservice brands like Sysco.

Why do they think people want mixed fruit jelly? Do we buy it at the store? No!

A diner in northeastern Pennsylvania is attached to a grocery store. They don't sell Mixed Fruit Jelly in the store. So why do they think the same customer wants it when he dines out?

C'mon, restaurants, please serve real preserves, and spend the extra two cents to give us a decent name brand like Dickinson, Knotts Berry or Smuckers at least, OK?

In Denver

Just over six months since my last post and the move to Denver. Hey, I've been busy. Denver is a great city, and I love being in a major city again where you can get just about anything. Here are some highlights so far...

• I've been to 3 of the 5 Jewish delis, had great corned beef flown in from New York, and at another, a great brisket sandwich. And that one sells black & whites.
• You can buy Batampte pickles from Brooklyn (half sour or garlic dill) in several places. I didn't expect to find them, or any brine pickles, out here.
• In season, you can buy fresh roasted chiles at farmers markets and roadside (and there's a farmers market a block away from my house). I've been using them on sandwiches, but plan to make chile verde (green chile sauce with pork).
• Dim Sum (Chinese finger foods). There are several places but the one we've gone to is The Empress. At noon on Christmas the place was packed -- 95% Chinese, 5% Jewish.
• Enzo's End Pizzeria -- best Northeast style pizza I've had outside of New York/New Haven/Boston
• The Mexicans stew short ribs that are butchered the same way as flanken, so I bought some and made flanken for the first time. A taste right out of my childhood.
• What they call "mild" here easteners call "medium."
• The Savory Spice Shop - this wonderful store grinds its own spices and makes its own blends and rubs. There are tasters for just about all and the prices are reasonable.
• A bunch of restaurant chains are based here, but my favorite is Chipotle Grill. Simply the best quality and best value in fast food. Others are Qdoba, Quiznos, Red Robin and Heidi's Brooklyn Deli.

Moving On

Buckhorn Exchange

In 3 days, I'll be leaving the South -- a place I never thought I'd live -- to move to the Rockies -- a place I never thought I'd live. Just goes to show, you can make all the plans you want, but sometimes life takes over.

Living in Virginia made me aware for the first time of Southern cuisine, although I've barely begun to explore it. My farewell Southern meal was a full pork picnic shoulder pulled barbecue I made in the Western North Carolina style along with fixin's for my friends Micah And Ricky. Like me, they're very Reform Jews.

Now I'm wondering if there is such as thing as Rockies cuisine. I think game meats such as buffalo and elk are part of it. One great place to enjoy them is the Buckhorn Exchange. It's the oldest restaurant in Denver and is decorated with lots of taxidermy. Another great one, in nearby Morrison, is The Fort. I also look forward to exploring the many taquerias and carnicerias in Denver.