Stealth Trip to Maine

Why is it that I only seem to blog after eating with Micah?

I had a quick weekend trip to Maine to visit a friend who is ailing, but first stopped off to dine with Micah and another radio refuge, Steve, at Portland's Great Lost Bear.

They may have lost the Bear, but they've found the Beer, with 72 taps going.

What you see at right are the remains of a very good, creamy cheesecake. We started with loaded nachos. I had a cheesesteak, Steve a burger and Micah a haddock rollup. It's that kind of place.

What is really impressive is the Bear has been there longer than our server has been alive. I wrote the first radio commercials for them when they opened in 1979. The place has hardly changed. Decor pretty much the same. Menu has nearly all the items it had originally, with additions to address trends of the past three decades such as rollups and fajitas. The main addition is all of those taps.

Predictable but never boring. We went early on Friday and by the time we exited, around 7 pm there was a line out the door. The Great Lost Bear is my favorite restaurant success story. Kudos to Dave and Wesley for doing it right!

Another visit to the Lobster Shack at Two Lights

Watching the waves while waiting.

Clam basket and a mini blueberry crumb pie.

The best lobster roll I've ever had!

There are many great waterside places for lobster in Maine, and truthfully, I've only been to a handful.

After a visit to the spectacular Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens in Boothbay, we continued down the road apiece to the Trevett Country store overlooking a cute little harbor between islands.

And there, we had the most overstuffed lobster rolls I have ever seen. The picture below was taken after I picked off a number of bites so the meat wouldn't just fall out of the bun. Just a hint of mayo and a little lettuce.

Thank G-d for Mister Bagel

When Barbara and I moved to Portland, Maine from Brooklyn in 1977, the hardest adjustment was the food: really bad pizza and no Jewish deli or bagels.

We lived on the second floor of a 3 floor building with one apartment per floor (photo), typical in New England. About a month after we moved in a sign was erected at the abandoned gas station across the street: "Coming soon, Mister Bagel." We couldn't believe it.

Mister Bagel was founded by Brooklyn transplants Rick and Gail Hartglass. They have a great Super (everything) bagel and even have bialys, which are difficult to find outside New York. It's still my favorite bagel place anywhere.

And since 1977, I've been grateful for Mister Bagel.

Becky's Diner, Portland, Maine

Every time I visit Maine, I meet Micah for breakfast at Becky's on the Portland waterfront. According to their sign they serve lunch and dinner, but I've only been there for breakfast.

Typically, I won't eat pancakes out because I hate faux maple syrup, but Becky's offers the real thing. Of course you pay for it.

We both had the Hobson's Wharf Special with blueberry pancakes:

Onions are optional with the home fries, so ask for them. The pancakes were just chock full of wonderful Maine blueberries. Those low-bush "wild" berries have a much more intense flavor than regular blueberries.

I usually try to take a picture of the food before I eat it, but we were too hungry, so here we are later:

Rock 'n' Roger's, Salem. OR

Driving south on Oregon I-5 at lunchtime, I approached Salem and decided to eat at the Burger Basket again. Guess I forgot which exit to take and I ended up on Market Street and quickly spied Rock 'n' Roger's.

It has a more authentic feel than some other 50's style diners like Johnny Rockets, because it's not as slick and has a local feel. Before Ray Kroc bought out the McDonald brothers, all those places were local.

I had their basic burger and it was excellent -- better than the place I had been looking for! Very fresh toppings, and plentiful: sliced onion, shredded lettuce, tomato and special sauce. The fries were hand cut and very reminiscent of In'n'Out. I didn't have a shake, but I think they are popular -- the blender was going the whole time I was there.

Here's my burger plate and Coke:

Schnitzel Schnandwich

Driving through Coos Bay, Oregon, hungry at lunchtime, we were fearful of not finding anyplace we wanted to stop at. Then Sarah spotted this sign:


Perfect! It was the Blue Heron Bistro. She had the bratwurst sandwich and I went for the Schnitzel Schnandwich. It was delicious, and the warm German potato salad was fantastic. One great feature of their menu is 6 ounce beers. I rarely have a beer at lunch, but the short beer was the ideal accompaniment. I had a Spaten Optimator, a dark bock beer.

Burger Basket, Salem, OR

After an exhilarating but tiring hike through Silver Falls State Park in Oregon, my daughter and I headed into Salem for a late lunch.

We happened upon the Burger Basket, which claims to have the best burgers in the world. It was just what we were looking for -- something local and quick.

I don't agree that they have the best burgers, but they were very good, hand-formed patties. The place is filled with retro signs and the like. The onion rings and fries were unfortunately of the machine made frozen variety, but good enough, and the slaw was very nice. While it wasn't outstanding, it was a fun place and the burgers were "real food". I would stop there again.

In a Swirl Over Fried Clams

Amazingly, I read about Sea Swirl in Mystic Connecticut on the Roadfood site just days before I would be in that neck of the woods this summer.

True to Michael Stern's words, I had the best fried clams of my life there. I lived in Maine for nearly twenty years, so that's saying a lot! The clam bellies were light and sweet, the fries and cole slaw just fine. True to the location's legacy as a Carvel stand, they also sell soft-serve ice cream, so a complete dinner can be had there.

When In Cincinnati...

My 5-way in Cincinnati

One of the great remaining strictly regional foods in America is Cincinnati Chili. Created by Greek immigrants in the early 1900s, it has no relation to Tex-Mex chili.

It's served over spaghetti, with grated cheddar on top, and in between -- optionally -- are red beans and onions.

My favorite place to have it is Skyline Chili, a chain of diner style restaurants. I had one night in Cincy this week and enjoyed a dish of 5-way for the first time in years.

If you'd like to try it at home, I know there are recipes on the net, but the one I've made with great results was by Jane and Michael Stern in their wonderful book, Square Meals.

Casa Mono

A couple of years ago, my friend and co-worker Dan invited an industry friend and me to join him for dinner at Babbo, Mario Batali's flagship restaurant in New York. It was the meal of a lifetime and I wrote about it here.

Earlier this year, we were in New York together again and dined at another restaurant that Batali is a partner in, Casa Mono. This is a tapas restaurant, whose birth is described in the book Heat. Chef Andy Nusser wanted to create a Barcelona-style taverna.

Since it's been some months, my memory of the specific dishes we enjoyed is not as sharp as when I wrote about Babbo. But all of the ten or twelve plates we had were exquisite.

I remember chipirones, tiny little squid served with white beans, duck egg with potatoes, broiled mushrooms, razor clams, skirt steak with an onion melange. If you don't love garlic and salt, stay away!


Of course, they have a fantastic wine list, and while certainly not inexpensive, Dan chose a couple of Spanish wines that were better than any I had enjoyed, both under $100. Most of the plates are in the $11-15 range. So an expansive dinner such as we had does add up. But alternatively, a couple could have four plates and a glass of wine each and get out for $100 including tax and tip. For this quality of dining in Manhattan, that's a deal.

Fave Eats

Responding to a meme for my 5 favorite places to eat. It's dang hard to come up with just five, but let's see what happens...

Sammy's Romanian Steakhouse - New York
Much more than its name implies, this is a Jewish Experience. It's like going to a Bar Mitzvah in the Catskills. The menu includes most of the "K" foods -- kishke, kreplach, kasha varnishkes. But the steaks are amazing. Giant strip steaks with an indescribably delicious Romanian marinade. And to dip your bread? Not butter. Not olive oil. But schmaltz. Yes, liquefied chicken fat. Yum! Order Vodka and you'll be served a bottle of Absolut frozen in a block of ice, left at your table in a tub, just like champagne. Remember those old-fashioned seltzer bottles? There's one on your table. When you're done with the main course, your waitress will bring milk and Fox's U-Bet Chocolate Syrup. Those in the know will then mix their own egg creams (no egg, no cream, but it's nectar from heaven) to enjoy with a plate of rugulach. I forgot to mention the entertainment. Depending on the night, you might find a fellow who looks like Bobby Vinton singing and playing Jewish favorites and standards on a keyboard. The owner is the guy with the gold chains, a glass of wine in his hand and bawdy comments at the ready. Not to be missed! Leave your business card on the wall and buy a souvenir T-shirt.

Katz's Delicatessen - New York
One of the few authentic Jewish deli's left, this one is atypical. It is set up cafeteria style. You go to the counter, and a counterman makes your sandwich. Order your corned beef or pastrami on club bread for a great alternative to the ubiquitous rye. Enjoy the decor, which includes hanging salamis and a sign dating to W.W.II that urges you to "send a salami to your boy in the Army" (in New York, that rhymes). See my post from a 2005 visit.

Roscoe's House of Chicken and Waffles - Hollywood and other L.A. area locations
The name just about says it all. This combination works. Roscoe's is a specialized kind of soul food joint. You'll be greeted by a friendly security guard/mâitre d'. The menu is mostly various combinations of fried chicken and waffles. The chicken is wonderfully breaded and fried, available with or without gravy. The waffles are tender and fluffy. A side order of collard greens cuts through the heaviness of the gravy and syrup.

Billy Goat Tavern - Chicago
Many times, I've walked up Michigan Avenue just north of the Chicago River (one of my favorite spots in any city) and not noticed the sign for the Billy Goat. This time, my friend spotted it and we went down the stairs to a lower level on which cross streets run, to see what it was. Immediately on entering, I realized the import of our discovery. The Saturday Night sketch about a Greek burger joint - "Cheeborger, cheeborger . . . no fries, cheeps . . . no Pepsi, Coke." - was a take-off on the Billy Goat! It was a great cheeborger! I got a double, because the counterman refused to sell me a single. It is served on a piece of wax paper which you take to a fixin' station with onions, pickles, relish and condiments, and then carry to your table. Alert the historic preservation society; the Billy Goat must always stand!

Café du Monde - New Orleans
Enjoy fresh squeezed orange juice, that wonderful New Orleans chicory coffee, and beignets at this open air cafe near the waterfront. Beignets are incredibly wonderful, square, donut-like delicacies that are pummeled with powdered sugar. Most mornings, local street musicians will provide a jazz serenade.

OK, I can't stop at five...

Two Lights Lobster Shack - Cape Elizabeth, Maine
When visiting Maine between late April and early October, enjoy this classic seaside seafood experience. A beautiful, rocky setting just south of Portland. Lobsters, lobster rolls, great lobster stew, fried clams, shrimp or fish. Get a basket with fries, and cole slaw that has a hint of pineapple juice. Dine inside or out.

Arthur Bryant's - Kansas City
In a city known for its barbecue, this place ranks at the top. First finding national fame in Calvin Trillin's writings in the New Yorker, Bryant's has not been ruined by its celebrity. The key to its success is a uniquely flavored, grainy sauce. Get on line and be served whopping portions of ribs and fixin's on a metal tray. Enjoy your meal in decor that looks like a men's room, but is otherwise pleasant.

Yocco's - Allentown, PA.
There are few local/regional fast food joints of distinction left in America, and Yocco's is one. Their specialty is chili dogs. A standard "Yocco's" is a well-done dog in a steamed bun with mustard, chopped onions and homemade chili sauce. I recommend asking for pickles and (banana) peppers. Instead of fries, order fried potato pierogies -- sort of an Eastern European ravioli. Dig their logo which shows an angry hot dog wearing a crown eating...a hot dog.

Brennan's - New Orleans
In the best dining-out city in America, Brennan's has a special place in my heart. This is where I had the most amazing breakfast in my life, and I love breakfast! The specialty is poached eggs and omelets in many varieties, done to perfection. Have turtle soup as an opener and finish with Bananas Foster (this is where it was invented) made tableside. Make reservations, dress well, and plan to spend more than you ever thought breakfast could cost. Just do it.

Lawry's Prime Rib - Chicago, Las Vegas, L.A.
A relic of a bygone age (like the 40's!), with waitresses identified as "Miss Soandso," none of the first-name-phony-familiarity that's run rampant. With the exception of one fish dish, they serve prime rib and prime rib only. Choose from a selection of cuts, carved tableside from a Buck Rogers-ish chrome cart. Salads are served from a bowl that your waitress spins by hand as she drizzles Lawry's salad dressing (a spicy French type) into it. Sadly, they no longer bottle the dressing; you used to be able to take some home. Yes, this is the restaurant that invented Lawry's seasoned salt.

Buckhorn Exchange - Denver
A real man's eating establishment, but women are invited, too. The oldest restaurant in Denver at 100+. A kind view of the decor, for non-hunters, is that it's like a visit to the Museum of Natural History. In other words, taxidermy abounds in a setting of rich hardwood. The menu features elk, buffalo, rocky mountain oysters and other game. Preparation and presentation are superb, and the food tastes wonderful, not gamy at all. This is the kind of place to which a gentleman will want to wear a tweed jacket with suede elbow patches, though I don't think there's an official dress code.

Phillippe's the Original - Los Angeles
Phillipe's feels like a trip back to the 1940's, but the place is actually older. Founded in 1908, they claim to have created the French Dip sandwich in 1918 by inadvertantly dropping a roast beef sandwich in the gravy. The customer who accepted the soggy meal came back with friends for more, and a menu item was born. Also born was a verbal travesty as other places serve the gravy on the side and refer to their sandwiches as being served "with au jus." You want to upset the French, that's all you need. Me, I'll take the tasty soggy sandwich along with great sides -- cole slaw, served dry, medium or wet, macaroni salad with lots of pickle relish, an outstanding kosher dill pickle, beet-pickled eggs and pickled pig's feet. My friends also tried and liked the beef stew. And you can get dipped sandwiches with lamb or other meats instead of beef. Beer, wine and rich desserts also available. The 1940's feel probably comes from the uniforms of the (counter) servers and the signage.

AQ Chicken House - Springdale, AR.
Just a town away from Wal-Mart HQ is another stuck-in-time eatery. They make pan-fried chicken and I've never had any nearly as good. A chicken dinner with sides and ice tea ran about $14 including tip just a few years ago.

I knew I couldn't do just five!

2nd Ave Deli R. I. P.

The Second Avenue Deli was the last of the old neighborhood Jewish delicatessens. Growing up, there was one just like it in every Jewish neighborhood in the Bronx, Brooklyn and Manhattan. I never went to Queens, so I don't know about that.

When I lived in the East Village, in the early 70s, it was still a small neighborhood place with white tile floors and countermen with concentration camp tattoos on their arms.

Sometime in the 70s, the Deli expanded and the decor was made fancier, but the menu did not change. Eventually the countermen were Hispanic and Asian, but the servers were the same crotchety old Jewish men and women. I once saw a waitress spill soup on a customer and then yell at the customer.

A few years ago, the founder and owner was murdered while making a night deposit. His children carried it on for a while, but I've read that they didn't own the building and the rents in this now gentrified neighborhood (the half-railroad I rented for $75 in 1971 would probably fetch $1,500+ now) were too high, so they closed it earlier this year.

Yes, there are other Jewish delis in New York, not the last of them Katz's, but the 2nd Ave.'s demise truly marks the end of an era.

Photo from Eater

Strange Fruit

Why is it that breakfast joints, even some otherwise good ones, insist on serving "Mixed Fruit" jelly? Guess it's cheaper, especially the no-name foodservice brands like Sysco.

Why do they think people want mixed fruit jelly? Do we buy it at the store? No!

A diner in northeastern Pennsylvania is attached to a grocery store. They don't sell Mixed Fruit Jelly in the store. So why do they think the same customer wants it when he dines out?

C'mon, restaurants, please serve real preserves, and spend the extra two cents to give us a decent name brand like Dickinson, Knotts Berry or Smuckers at least, OK?

In Denver

Just over six months since my last post and the move to Denver. Hey, I've been busy. Denver is a great city, and I love being in a major city again where you can get just about anything. Here are some highlights so far...

• I've been to 3 of the 5 Jewish delis, had great corned beef flown in from New York, and at another, a great brisket sandwich. And that one sells black & whites.
• You can buy Batampte pickles from Brooklyn (half sour or garlic dill) in several places. I didn't expect to find them, or any brine pickles, out here.
• In season, you can buy fresh roasted chiles at farmers markets and roadside (and there's a farmers market a block away from my house). I've been using them on sandwiches, but plan to make chile verde (green chile sauce with pork).
• Dim Sum (Chinese finger foods). There are several places but the one we've gone to is The Empress. At noon on Christmas the place was packed -- 95% Chinese, 5% Jewish.
• Enzo's End Pizzeria -- best Northeast style pizza I've had outside of New York/New Haven/Boston
• The Mexicans stew short ribs that are butchered the same way as flanken, so I bought some and made flanken for the first time. A taste right out of my childhood.
• What they call "mild" here easteners call "medium."
• The Savory Spice Shop - this wonderful store grinds its own spices and makes its own blends and rubs. There are tasters for just about all and the prices are reasonable.
• A bunch of restaurant chains are based here, but my favorite is Chipotle Grill. Simply the best quality and best value in fast food. Others are Qdoba, Quiznos, Red Robin and Heidi's Brooklyn Deli.

Moving On

Buckhorn Exchange

In 3 days, I'll be leaving the South -- a place I never thought I'd live -- to move to the Rockies -- a place I never thought I'd live. Just goes to show, you can make all the plans you want, but sometimes life takes over.

Living in Virginia made me aware for the first time of Southern cuisine, although I've barely begun to explore it. My farewell Southern meal was a full pork picnic shoulder pulled barbecue I made in the Western North Carolina style along with fixin's for my friends Micah And Ricky. Like me, they're very Reform Jews.

Now I'm wondering if there is such as thing as Rockies cuisine. I think game meats such as buffalo and elk are part of it. One great place to enjoy them is the Buckhorn Exchange. It's the oldest restaurant in Denver and is decorated with lots of taxidermy. Another great one, in nearby Morrison, is The Fort. I also look forward to exploring the many taquerias and carnicerias in Denver.

A Toast to New Orleans

I know it is too soon to write an obituary for New Orleans. Having made my fourth visit there this past spring, the fresh memories of a great city compound the sadness I feel seeing it under water and its people in despair. There is much I love about the city, but for me, New Orleans is more than anything about the food.

In one week in April...
...I took a culinary history walking tour of the French Quarter
...had beignets and coffee at Cafe du Monde 5 times and
...a big, greasy breakfast at Mother's another morning and
...atmospheric dinners at Broussard's, Arnaud's and Court of Two Sisters and
...not so fancy red beans and rice, jambalaya, gumbo and shrimp creole at the Gumbo Shop and Bon Ton Cafe and
...a shrimp po-boy and Abita beer at Bruning's overlooking Lake Ponchartrain and
...a muffaletta from Central Grocery

Of course there were the evenings drinking at the Monteleone's carousel bar, and listening to the incredible Zydeco accordianist Duane Dopsie and inveterate blues singer Big Al Carson on Bourbon Street.

There are many New Orleans cookbooks. The one I own is by the Gumbo Shop. While the restaurant itself is dependable but not exceptional, the cookbook is excellent; beautifully designed, with great photography, and the recipes are fabulous.

Broussard's

Arnaud's

So here's to New Orleans. I know I'll be back.

1888

Two great institutions were founded in 1888. One is the one I work for, The National Geographic Society. The other is Katz's Delicatessen on New York's Lower East Side.

I first enjoyed the pleasures of Katz's with my friend Barry when we were teenagers more than 35 years ago. I visited again last week and invited some industry friends to meet me there. It is set up cafeteria style. You go to the counter, and a counterman makes your sandwich. Tipping, once done on the sly, is now encouraged. A sign dating to W.W.II urges you to "send a salami to your boy in the Army" (in New York, that rhymes).

I always have a hard time choosing between corned beef and pastrami. Since Henry and I got there early, I had a hot dog appetizer while pondering the selection. Once our friends had arrived, they lined up behind me. I went for the pastrami, piled high on rye with mustard. The counterman gave me a generous plate of sour and half sour pickles and pickled green tomatoes. I helped myself to a plate of sauerkraut, and bought some potato knishes and fries for the table. Sipped first on a Dr. Brown's Cream soda, and still thirsty, followed with a Dr. Brown's Black Cherry. Regina enjoyed something I hate, but Barry always loved, Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray. Yup, celery soda.

Regina brought the table a classic New York black & white cookie to share. On Seinfeld, Jerry said, "Oh look Elaine, the black and white cookie. I love the black and white. Two races of flavor living side by side. It's a wonderful thing isn't it?"

This was Shane's first dinner ever in New York. I told him he hit the jackpot -- few places are more unique to NY than Katz's. He unwittingly had a taste of tongue. I think he found it "interesting." I find tongue too rich to have by itself, but sometimes have a combo with corned beef.

I'll forgive Sandy for having a hot dog with relish and ketchup instead of the de rigeur mustard and kraut.

If you saw the movie When Harry Met Sally you've seen Katz's. Meg Ryan might have been faking it, but I've seen people with this look there:



"I'll Have What She's Having"

Molto Mario

In New York on business, I was with a colleague who went to high school with chef Mario Batali. He contacted Mario to get a reservation at his flagship restaurant, Babbo.

This was an amazing meal, and thanks to my friend Dan, three of us were treated to Mario's company during dinner and some great extras he served us.

Every element of every dish was exquisite, each new flavor a revelation, beginning with bruschetta topped with chick peas. Then Mario brought us two plates of salume, each with six or more types of cured meats. One plate had his creations and the other his father's. Mario's included a delicious salad of carmelized onions, Cipolle Modenese.



Armandino Batali's Mole
Antipasti we ordered were: Marinated Fresh Anchovies with Watermelon Radishes and Lobster Oil, Grilled Octopus with "Borlotti Marinati" and Spicy Limoncello Vinaigrette, and
Roasted Beet Salad with Ricotta Salata. Mario also brought us mozzerella with tomatoes and basil. This was not your everyday insalata caprese. The cheese was the most tender and flavorful ever, and there were several varieties of basil. Mario topped this with his own olive oil.

For our Primo, we shared Beef Cheek Ravioli. But since we had been talking with Mario about how gnocchi tended to be heavy "bombs", he insisted we try his, which were light as a feather.

For our Secondi, Dan and I each had Brasato ai Borolo (melt in your mouth braised beef). Charlie had a signature dish, Spicy Two-Minute Calamari Sicilian Lifeguard Style. Evidently a particularly "spicy" lifeguard was Mario's inspiration. These were accompanied by wine from Mario's vineyard in Italy.

A selection of digestives was followed by espresso and Chocolate Hazelnut Cake, Warm Blueberry Crostata, an assortment of Gelati and Sorbetti, and raspberries and figs over mascarpone.

It was fun to listen to Mario and Dan catching up after nearly 30 years while enjoying the meal of a lifetime.

Toasted Ravioli

This is a St. Louis specialty that is said to have originated at Charlie Gitto's restaurant there. I'd never had it, but decided to make it for a party. The recipe I found on the web said to just defrost frozen ravioli, bread and fry, but my testing showed that I had to partially cook the ravioli first. As this is labor intensive, I prepared it a couple of hours ahead and then reheated. I was afraid the ravioli would be chewy, but they were fine. Reviews of the final product were very positive.

Toasted Ravioli

1 pound frozen cheese ravioli
2 tablespoons milk
1 egg
1 cup fine bread crumbs, seasoned to taste with dried oregano, parsely and garlic powder
vegetable oil
1 cup marinara sauce
grated parmesan or romano

Boil ravioli for about half the time called for on the package. Drain and spread out on cookie sheets to cool. Pat dry with paper towels.

Beat together milk and egg in a shallow bowl. Season breadcrumbs and place in a shallow bowl. Dip each ravioli into egg mixture and coat with crumbs.

In a heavy 3-quart saucepan or deep frying pan, heat 2 inches of oil to 350 degrees.

Fry ravioli, about 6 at a time, in hot oil for 1 minute per side or until golden. Drain on paper towels. Arrange on cookie sheets and keep warm in a 300 degree oven while frying the rest, or cover with foil and reheat a little later.

Heat sauce. Serve as a starter: place 4-5 ravioli on a small plate with a dollop of sauce in the middle for dipping. Sprinkle cheese on top.